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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.